New Red Wing Routes
Pietro Loves Iris and Gene Machine
I am developing and lay claim to two new routes in RedWing. They are between Living All Over Me on the left and Dead Dog Face on the right. I will be bolting them.
One goes to the left, arêtes are off, only the left side of face is on, and is called "Gene Machine" in honor of my mentor in life Gene Leonard who still lives within me today. I tentatively rate it one move 5.9.
The other one follows the right arete and ends at Dead Dog Face Anchors. It is an arête hugger like the 5.12 around the left corner. It is called "Pietro Loves Iris" in honor of an excellent friend of mine in Italy and his girlfriend. I tentatively rate it 5.10
Sept 2005 Update
I have bolted them and am now aware that these were established topropes that I didn't know about when I bolted them and I did not know that bolting toprope routes is bad juju. The route descriptions did NOT appear in Mike Farris's Minnesota Rock (green book), but did appear in his Falcon Rock Climbing Minnesota with no names associated with it. If the FA want to chop the bolts go for it and I will not rebolt it. Apologies.
Shower The People You Love with Bolts
My route is open as of 4/28/2007. It starts with Stylin' and heads right up ramp, merges with Anadonia to shelf. Step left into the small foot cave and turn up onto face (crux) and heads straight up (look for trigger) to small roof on face climbs. Stay off Anadonia face. Stop at first chains.
Goes at 5.10b/c. FA Michael Endrizzi July 2006. FFA Michael Endrizzi Sept 2006.
A Bolting Love Story - The story of this route
DANGER DANGER DANGER - The second pitch is very loose and is closed to climbing. Not only when climbing but when lowering large chunks will come off because I have not cleaned it. Warn your belayer and anyone in the area. I will not be responsible for you ignoring my recommendations. The top 1/3 sucks anyways not worth doing.
As first ascensionist anyone that wants to bolt the piss out of my climbs (besides the ones I put in) or sport climb (lead only) it I hereby grant them the right. I also grant the right to chip, epoxy, glue on holds, dynamite, etc. I totally forbid any trad climbing, free solo, solo, aid or toproping on this route for infinity. Basically don't even look at these routes unless you are going to sport lead them.